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Guide to Keeping a Chameleon

Updated: Apr 6

Thinking of bringing a chameleon home for the first time? You’re in for a fascinating journey. Chameleons are some of the most unique and beautiful reptiles in the world—but they do require specialized care. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics to help you start strong as a new chameleon owner.


Choosing the Right Species

There are many species of chameleon, and some are more tolerant than others in regards to handling and environmental changes. The species we are currently keeping:


  • Panther Chameleon (Furcifer pardalis) – Vibrant and easy to care for with the proper setup

  • Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus) – Hardy, forgiving and feisty

  • Jackson’s Chameleon (Trioceros jacksonii) – Known for their horned, dinosaur-like appearance and cooler temperature preference

  • Carpet Chameleon (Furcifer lateralis) – Small, colorful and docile


Each species has slightly different care requirements, so it’s important to choose one that fits your lifestyle and level of experience. A great starting point is the Chameleon Academy species profiles—a trusted resource in the chameleon community.


Creating the right enclosure is crucial to your chameleon’s health and happiness. Here’s a checklist of essentials:


  • Tall all-screen or hybrid-screen enclosure (this depends on the ambient humidity in the room you will keep your chameleon in. If the room is dry - like it is here at our studio in Salt Lake City, Utah - covering a few sides of the enclosure in a solid material like plastic sheeting will help keep the humidity inside the enclosure). For adult Veiled and Panther chameleons, the ideal enclosure size is 24"x24"x48"h. Jackson's, Carpet and juveniles can be kept in smaller enclosures; 18"x18"x 36"h is popular. Bigger is always better.

  • UVB Lighting is necessary for calcium absorption and bone health.

  • Basking Bulb for proper heat gradients.

  • Live Plants for climbing and humidity regulation. Artificial plants can be used additionally. However, we have noticed a huge improvement to the health and liveliness of our chameleons as we add more live plants to their habitats.

  • Vines and other places for your chameleon to climb and explore.

  • Misting and drip system to provide hydration (in nature, chameleons don’t drink from bowls).

  • Thermometers & Hygrometers to monitor temperature and humidity.


Chameleons are primarily insectivorous. While some will snack on plants, all species eat live insects like crickets, dubia roaches, or silkworms. Gut-loading (feeding insects a nutrient-rich diet) is essential, as is dusting with calcium and multivitamin supplements.


Learn more about proper supplementation from the Chameleon Academy’s Nutrition Guide.


Feeding frequency:

  • Juveniles: Daily

  • Adults: Every other day


We have always said that a lonely chameleon is a happy chameleon. They prefer observing from a distance and may become stressed from frequent handling. That said, with patience and respect for their boundaries, they can become comfortable with your presence.


Let your chameleon come to you. Hand-feeding is our favorite way to build trust over time.


Common Mistakes to Avoid

  1. Improper Hydration – Dehydration is likely the number one cause of health issues.

  2. Incorrect UVB Lighting – Leads to metabolic bone disease.

  3. Poor Enclosure Ventilation – Avoid glass tanks; proper airflow is key.

  4. Over-handling – Stress can lead to illness.

  5. Mixing Chameleons – They’re solitary animals. One chameleon per enclosure, always.


Talk to Us

Owning a chameleon is incredibly rewarding when you’re well-prepared. These beautiful creatures thrive with the right environment, diet, and care. If you’re just getting started, take the time to educate yourself and please ask questions! There are a lot of experts in our chameleon community. As always, we are here to help.


 
 
 

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