Not at all. While chameleons have a reputation for being difficult to care for in captivity, they are relatively simple with the right equipment. Automatic foggers and sprayers have reduced the maintenance and guess work from our hobby, and the current technology has made keeping a chameleon healthy easier than ever before. Getting your equipment before you pick up your chameleon and making sure your parameters are right are the key to success. In order to build the correct environment for them, they will need the proper lighting, humidity, and hydration to thrive. Curious about how to get started? Head over to our blog for a full guide on caring for your chameleon: Guide to Keeping a Chameleon.

You’ll need: • a tall and well-ventilated enclosure • UVB light • heat lamp • a fogger/humidifier - especially if you are in a dry area • live plants and vines Check out our guide for detailed instructions for chameleon care: The Best Habitat for Happy Chameleons

Chameleons require specific care and don't love to be handled frequently, so they do require a responsible and respectful caretaker. That said, they can be wonderful educational pets for older kids. Being able to teach hundreds of kids about chameleons at reptile events across the country has been one of the most rewarding aspects of our jobs as chameleon breeders and owners.

Chameleons are insectivores, meaning their diet consists of live, gut-loaded insects like crickets, dubia roaches, and silkworms. It is good to think of the insects as a vehicle to get nutrients into your chameleon. There is a significant nutritional difference between a cricket which has been eating sliced potatoes and a cricket which you have been feeding a fortified gutload and dusted with calcium powder. For a breakdown of how we handle feeding at Chameo, see Feeding Schedule & Nutrition Tips for Your Chameleon.

Improper setup—especially lighting, humidity, and hydration. A weak foundation leads to health problems fast. Investing in the right enclosure and gear from the start will save you money and stress later.

Once your chameleon associates you with feeding, they will look forward to your arrival, and will sometimes even approach you enthusiastically. You can build trust over time using positive reinforcement like hand-feeding. It takes patience, but it can be fun and rewarding for both you and your chameleon.

Juveniles: 6-10 insects every day Adults: ~6 large insects every other day

Different species have very different lifespans. With proper care, most male panther and veiled chameleons live 5 to 7 years. Females are shorter-lived at around 3-4 years. Jackson's chameleons live about a year or two longer. And carpet chameleons are relatively short-lived, with 3 years being considered old for the species. As always, a consistent environment and care is key to a long, healthy life.

The complete hydration cycle for chameleons consists of 2 main components: • drinking dew off of leaves and branches in the morning and rain drops throughout the day. • breathing humid air in the evening. We simulate this in our enclosures by spraying their plants and vines in the morning to emulate morning dew and again once or twice during the day to emulate rain. Then we use a fogger or humidifier at night to raise the humidity in the air that they will breathe while they sleep. This allows them to wake up already hydrated. Both spraying and fogging can be automated, which adds consistency to their environment and simplifies their care. See out full guide on chameleon automation. For a detailed explanation of the full chameleon hydration cycle, check out The Chameleon Academy's article on the subject.

With patience and regular handling, most chameleons will learn to tolerate being held. However, chameleons are naturally solitary animals, and would rather be left alone to observe you from a distance. The key to handling your chameleon is patience and food. For more details on our process building trust with your chameleon, check out How to Handle Your Chameleon

Never. Chameleons are solitary animals and should always be housed individually. Even if there is no outright aggression, the presence of another chameleon will ALWAYS lead to stress, health issues and often death. There will be people who attempt this anyway, and many post videos that end up with a lot of views showing multiple chameleons appearing to rest or interact together. This does not reflect reality and does not work long term. Cohabitation will always lead to extreme stress. Please reach out to us if you have any questions about what you hear or see regarding this topic. We are very proud and passionate about the health of our chameleons, and forced cohabitation leads to many unnecessary chameleon deaths in our hobby every year.

Yes. UVB lighting is critical for calcium absorption and bone health. A basking light is also needed to create a proper temperature gradient in their enclosure. Without correct lighting, chameleons can develop serious health issues like metabolic bone disease.

Common signs of stress include dark coloration, hiding, puffing up, or hissing. If something has stressed them out, they will often not eat for an hour or so until they feel safe again. They are cautious animals, but they are very food-motivated. If left alone, they will usually destress and get back to their normal selves soon.

For adult Veiled and Panther chameleons, 24"x24"x48" is ideal. Carpet and Jackson’s chameleons can be comfortable in slightly smaller enclosures—18"x18"x36"—but bigger is always better. Make sure the enclosure is vertical with plenty of climbing space.